Have a glass of Pastis, watch a Marcel Pagnol movie or look at Paul Cezanne’s paintings and get yourself into the mood.  Today is all about Marseilles and real Bouillabaisse.  We had a passionate discussion over dinner, and I am still convinced there is no other city in the world that argues more about its specialty than Marseilles.  Sure, New Yorkers think those crappy pizzas that are synonymous with their city are good (what else would a Chicago boy say?) and are vocal about it.  Chicagoans are fervent of their beautiful deep dish pizzas.  But the level of enthusiasm pales in comparison to that of Bouillabaisse.  In Marseilles, family members cease to be family members, neighbors’ houses razed while they are on vacation and gardens gnomes gone swimming with the fish Godfather style over the correct Bouillabaisse fish.  Marseilles even has a charter that TELLS you, rather than guide you…