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A Short Plečnik Walk

It’s high time I took you for a walk along the Ljubljanica.  Just a short walk, but we’ll take in several of Ljubljana’s key sights, and a couple of Jože Plečnik’s masterpieces.

There’s a map of the route at the end of the post; the numbers in brackets in the text coincide with the circled numbers on the map.

Let’s start on the right bank of the Ljubljanica River (1), at the famous Triple Bridge (Tromostovje), possibly the most well-known of Plečnik’s works.  This delicious 1931 remodelling of a previous crossing is a great first glimpse of what Ljubljana has to offer.  No simple bridge here: there are three crossings, the side ones at an angle to the central bridge, 642 concrete balusters with hefty bulbous finials, and steps to link to river level.

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We’re not going to cross the bridge yet though.  Instead, we’ll turn to our right and walk towards the market, with the river on our left.  This area is buzzing day and night (2), with a lively market spilling down the street Monday to Saturday and musical entertainment to eat and shop by.

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The majestic colonnades on the left are another Plečnik legacy, built in 1939-40.  They run right along the river here to another famous bridge. But no rush, we’ll get there soon enough.

The street opens into a square (3), full of street food stands and other market stalls and the magnificent colonnades (4) now curve along the line of the river.  I’ll let you wander around the stalls while I grab a plate of that paella!

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There are a few permanent shops and restaurants built into the colonnades and this is a great spot to enjoy a coffee.

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Walk along here at night…

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or on a Sunday, for a completely different feel…

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The market is closed on Sundays and it’s the perfect time to admire the sensuous architecture.

Just to the right across the square, stands St Nicholas’s Cathedral (Stolna Cerkev Sv Nikolaja) (5).

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Today we’re focussing on the river though, so we’ll walk to the north end of the colonnades to admire the famous Dragon Bridge (Zmajski Most).  You’ll recognise the four dragons (7) that guard the entrances to the bridge – they are the popular symbol of the city.

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The bridge (6) was opened on 4 October 1901 and was the first reinforced concrete bridge in Ljubljana and had the third largest arch in Europe at that time. The completed bridge was dedicated to Franz Joseph I to commemorate forty years of rule from 1848 to 1888. The Croatian architect Juriji Zaninović designed the overall look, with its balustrades and scary dragons.

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We’ll cross the bridge now and turn left along the left bank (8) of the river.  It’s a road bridge so keep your wits about you while you’re taking the obligatory shots of those dragons and beautiful lamps.

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A little further along the embankment, we’ll take a quick detour up the steps and onto the Butcher’s Bridge (Mesarski Most) (10), which leads back into the Central Market.  Plečnik had planned for this bridge to be covered and effectively a continuation of his magnificent market building.  But war broke out and his plans were never fulfilled.  In fact, it wasn’t until 2010 that a bridge finally opened here, designed by Jurij Kobe and decorated with works by sculptor Jakov Brdar.

Its apparent simplicity seems to be in contrast to what Plečnik would have constructed, but it has its own modern extravagances, with glass sides to the walkway and a number of statues and sculptures.

Adam and Eve expelled from Eden and walking towards Ljubjana Cathedral

Adam and Eve expelled from Eden and walking towards Ljubjana Cathedral (9)

The metal ropes (12) that form the sides of the bridge have been taken over by the dreaded love padlocks.

a1-1009-2Back to the left bank now and we’ll grab an ice cream – this is the perfect spot.

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Let’s take a seat here next to the river (11), cool down with a delicious ice cream, and take in the river views. Keep an eye on the water too, as you may spot an otter (my photo is too blurred to share I’m afraid).

After this it’s a short stroll to vibrant Prešeren Square (Prešernov trg) (12, 13, 14).  This grand public space effectively links the Old Town to the centre.  This is where friends gather, where tourists gawk at fabulous architecture and where celebrations and demonstrations take place.

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It is a real hub of the city, with many streets running from it.  The square and the surrounding area house some fantastic pieces of architecture, including Art Nouveau pieces and the Baroque delight of the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation (14).  The square is named for the Slovene national poet France Prešeren, and his statue (12) together with muse, stands in one corner. Both square and statue were declared a cultural monument in June 1991.

Looking back across the Triple Bridge (15) to our starting point you get a eye-catching view of Ljubljana Castle keeping watch over the city.  I’ll leave you here to wander where you will.  Enjoy!

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Numbers in brackets in the text coincide with the red numbers on the map

Numbers in brackets in the text coincide with the red numbers on the map

For more Monday Walks, go visit Restless Jo.

14 replies »

  1. Beautiful pictures 🙂 I love bridges, especially bridges that connect the banks of narrow rivers in European cities…. also, its funny that you said “dreaded” love padlocks 🙂 Something needs to be done about them 🙂

    Like

  2. I’m definitely sold on this city, Debs, and would love to combine it with Lake Bled one day.
    Love your little sketch maps 🙂 Those Adam and Eve statues are so full of anguish, but beautiful! Apart from that I had a very happy time 🙂 Many thanks for your lovely share.

    Liked by 1 person

    • I want to see Lake Bled too. There were buses there from the airport and plenty of day trips from Ljubljana. I’m thinking of getting a car next time and doing a bit of a tour, including the coast.

      It’s also an easy add-on to a Venice trip.

      On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 1:54 PM, Travel with Intent wrote:

      >

      Liked by 1 person

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